Gucci creates the surprise and separates from its DA Alessandro Michele

It's the end of an era at Gucci. The Italian house has just announced the end of its collaboration with Alessandro Michele, artistic director of the brand since 2015.

  Gucci creates the surprise and separates from its DA Alessandro Michele

Hello Alessandro! This is the surprise announcement made by the house Gucci on Wednesday, November 23, 2022. After seven years as artistic director of the Italian brand and more than twenty years in the studios of the Kering group label, Alexander Michael s'en va. ' There are times when paths diverge due to the different perspectives each of us has. “, commented the creator in a moving post on Instagram. WWD , Alessandro Michele would have been instructed to make a change of style to boost the results of the label that weighs for half of the turnover from Kering. Instead, he offered a disturbingly beautiful show, his specialty, during Fashion Week spring-summer 2023 .

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For his part, François-Henri Pinault, CEO of the French group, said in a press release: ' The path traveled together by Gucci and Alessandro in recent years is unique, and will remain as an extraordinary moment in the history of the house. (...) His passion, his imagination, his fantasy and his culture have contributed to putting Gucci back on the front of the stage, where its place is '. If the name of a successor has not yet been announced, specialists in the sector are already making their bets. Richard Tisci , CEO of Burberry until October 2022, is in pole position. Waiting, ' Gucci's design studio will continue to provide creative responsibility for the house until a new organization is announced ', said the mark. To be continued...

What is the history of the Gucci house?

Behind the house of Gucci hides more than a century of Italian fashion. Its founder is called Guccio Gucci and was born on March 26, 1881 to a craftsman father add who he worked with when he was just a teenager. As a young man who had become a butler at the Savoy in London, he noticed the growing interest of the world's rich in travel (by train, boat, car and soon by plane). He also notes the elegance and refinement of their leather trunks and luggage , beautiful marker objects of a particularly wealthy social class. After working for Franzi, a luggage manufacturer, Guccio Gucci opens its first multi-brand store in 1921 in Florence aimed at tourists. His credo: leather accessories . Horse saddles are then its most popular products. From 1930, the entrepreneur moved on to creating and made in the leather parts backroom. It is a success which allows the opening of a second store in Rome in 1938. 1938 is also the year when Gucci becomes a family business with the arrival of Guccio's sons, Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo in the company. The brand then tries other materials such as canvas Diamond signature of the house or bamboo, due to the restrictions that hit Italy on the eve of the Second World War, then the shortages after the latter. Direction New York in 1953: Gucci s'internationalise . Americans are infatuated with the label, adopted by celebrities, of Elizabeth Taylor to Jackie Kennedy via Grace Kelly. The latter even sees herself creating a tailor-made pattern, the Flora , who dresses her favorite scarf in 1966.



A few years later, in 1974, the brand already had fourteen own stores and fifty franchise addresses around the world. But as Gucci tries to establish itself in Asia, the brand begins to experience difficult times. In 1981, she launched a ready-to-wear line and organizes its first parade in stride. But between the Gucci brothers, it's a war at loggerheads and Rodolfo's son, Maurizio, took the helm of the brand on the verge of bankruptcy in 1986, three years after his father's death. In 1987, Investcorp, an Emirati investment company partially bought the house, then totally in 1993. An operation that allowed Gucci to afford the talents of renowned designers.

Who are the creators who shaped the brand?

Gucci Spring-Summer 2003 show by Tom Ford

To mark the beginning of a new era, Gucci calls on Dawn Mello . This businesswoman, who officiated in the upper echelons of the American department store Bergdorf Goodman, became artistic director in 1989. To support her, she appointed Neil Barrett at the head of men's collections and load Thomas Carlyle aka Tom Ford of Women's Style . It was the American designer who took over from Dawn Mello when she left Gucci in 1994. He then launched chic porn, a very sexy aesthetic genre immortalized by photographer Mario Testino and broadcast in the pages of Vogue Paris then directed by Carine Roitfeld. In 1999, the PPR group (which became Kering over the years) bought Gucci. Tom Ford leaves home five years later, replaced by Alessandra Facchinetti. The designer does not last long and gives way to Frida Giannini two seasons later. The new artistic director takes the time to develop her vision of Gucci man and woman and is the subject of a documentary called The Director . In 2015, it is Alexander Michael who takes over the reins of the house. The designer stood out from his very first fashion show, which he put together in just five days. Under his aegis, Gucci fashion gets whimsical . Its collections, which have refuted all notions of gender since 2016, are rich in colors, shimmering materials and psychedelic prints. The art of the creator? Make kitsch that tastes good and make fun of fashion with humor. His hobby: interweaving the false and the true. Copy of copy to pay tribute to the American tailor Dapper Dan, Guccy with a counterfeit 'y' from the Ventimiglia market, or more recently, during the parade Air of the brand in April 2021, then Balenciaga in June of the same year, an astonishing collaboration dubbed The Hacking Project where the logos of these houses. On the flagship pieces of the two brands, properties of the Kering group, their respective logos flourish side by side.

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On November 23, 2022, the house of Gucci announced its departure by means of a press release after seven years at the head of the label. The name of his or her replacement is not yet known.

Where does the two-G logo come from?

The heirs of Guccio Gucci would have created the double G logo in homage to their father , whose seventh letter of the alphabet was the initials. The web band, alternating green, red and green stripes has also become one of the brand's emblems, present on many pieces signed Gucci. Among the other symbols of the Italian house, we find the snake or the bee , two stylistic signatures that have appeared on many Gucci creations since Alessandro Michele assumed the artistic direction of the house.

What are Gucci's key pieces?

Among the brand's hits, the sneakers , of the dress shoes such as furry mules, moccasins which sport the famous signature bit, passed down to posterity in 1985 when it entered the Moma collections... But also a myriad of hand bags : the Jackie launched in 1963, the Bamboo , the Diana , the Dyonisos or even the bag 1955 . Since 1975, Gucci has also offered perfumes to its customers. Among the most popular, Gucci Bloom and Flora by Gucci . Moreover, the brand now managed by Marco Bizzarri is one of the few to be able to boast of a production made in Italy . Brava!

What are the brand's iconic collaborations?

Gucci is used to collaborations . In 2017, the brand worked for example with Dapper Dan. In 2021, the house unveiled a viral collection with The North Face , another with Balenciaga and a final one with the Californian label specializing in gaming 100 Thieves. In the meantime, the teams of the transalpine label have also collaborated with Fiat, Disney and Hello Kitty, not to mention Palace, Balenciaga and Adidas.

What is the synopsis of House of Gucci , the film that revisits the history of the label?

27 mars 1995. Maurice Gucci , heir to the house that bears his name, son of Rodolfo and grandson of Guccio Gucci, dies in the middle of the street in Milan under the bullets of a hitman. It was his ex-wife, Patrizia Reggiani, who put a price on his head.

An act which earned him a sentence of 26 years in prison and which is the subject of a film shot by Ridley Scott. Entitled House of Gucci , it counts in the cast Adam Driver, Lady Gaga or even Camille Cottin and should arrive in theaters on November 24, 2021.

Source journaldesfemmes.fr