After a decade of celebration and emancipation of the body, gloom settles in the locker rooms following the stock market crash of 1929. Focus on the style of the 1930s.
After the stock market crash of 1929, we forget the frivolity of 20s to return to classicism and at conservatism pre-war. And the fashion sector is inevitably hit, with numerous bankruptcies and textile shortages straining the industry. Exit dresses with fringes or sequins, symbols of female emancipation, make way for strict tailors guarantors of the moral order and rigor of the time.
This period marks the birth of the myth of the Parisian . This woman high fashion , devoted mother who contrasts with the independent woman of the Roaring Twenties is celebrated by photographers like Man Ray and in magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue . By day, she wears a suit jacket with often padded shoulders and evening dresses to go to dinner. According to his leisure activities, since it is the appearance of paid holidays in 1936 , she adapts her outfit according to the desired level of comfort - beach pajamas Chanel appeared, but straight dresses fitted at the waist or draped in the back remained very trendy.
In 1931, Elsa Schiaparelli makes culottes for tennis player Lilí Álvarez for the Roland Garros tournament. A very controversial design at the time, but which will be much imitated. At the same time, tenniswomen are also democratizing shorts.
We also see palazzo pants very wide worn with waistcoats and robes waisted. If the materials become more flexible with the use of jersey, in particular by Elsa Schiaparelli, to the great despair of feminists the corset makes a comeback in the form of a sheath to ensure a flat stomach. The creator Madeleine Vionnet introduces the bias cut in dresses.
At the end of the 1930s, nylon was commercialized and would become one of the most popular materials of the following decade.
On the accessories side, we wear the hat on the side of the skull on a hair always wavy and notched. It is the boom of the first hair dyes which are popularized by movie stars like the androgynous Marlene Dietrich. Because if the European women's wardrobe is adorned with sobriety, Hollywood lives its golden age . From the masculine looks of Katharine Hepburn, to the satin dresses, feathers and fox collars of Jean Harlow, passing through the chic of Mae West and Greta Garbo, every woman finds herself in these actresses, new style icons.
If you want to adopt the 30s style , you must first determine the type of woman you want to embody. The original Parisienne with her couture suit, the androgynous Katharine Hepburn, her pleated palazzo pants and her chic and relaxed style, or a glamorous Hollywood icon in evening gown. If it is easy to copy these styles with today's ready-to-wear brands, we can draw coins athleisure at Lacoste or a jersey dress in many brands. If it is to get married that one wishes to marry the 30s style , we are inspired by the blue and draped dress of Wallis Simpson for her wedding with the Duke of Windsor. A model in silk crepe, both sober and fluid, which was one of the most copied at the time and whose influence can be found in certain designers of wedding dresses such as Victoire Vermeulen .
Fox-style collar, silk evening dress or high-waisted, wide trousers paired with a shirt or jersey top… To imitate the look of the stars of the 30s , we draw from our own dressing room or that of our grandparents. On the make-up side, if the complexion and the eyes must be as natural as possible, the emphasis is on the eyebrows which were shaved in a semi-circle at the time. For the hairstyle, we create waves, retro notches or a hair bun bottom associated with a headband .Source journaldesfemmes.fr